Filament & Printing FAQ's

1. Should I choose PLA or PETG for my project?

Choose based on what the finished part needs to do.

PLA is a good choice for display models, figurines and prototypes where fine detail matters more than heat resistance. It prints easily, but its low heat resistance and relatively brittle behaviour limit some functional applications.

PETG is better suited to brackets, holders and practical parts that need toughness and greater heat resistance. The trade-off is that it can string more, handle bridges and overhangs less cleanly, and produce supports that are harder to remove.

Neither is the best material for every job. Consider heat, loading and the model’s geometry before choosing.

2. My print isn’t sticking. Should I increase the bed temperature?

Check the surface and first layer before increasing temperatures.

Clean the plate using its manufacturer’s recommended method. Fingerprints and residue can reduce adhesion, even when the plate looks clean. Dishwashing detergent with warm water is highly effective in removing greasy finger prints. It is essential to rinse the detergent thoroughly and to dry the plate with paper towel or a lint free cloth.

Inspect the first layer. Lines should join into a continuous layer. Gaps between lines can indicate that the nozzle is too far from the plate; heavy ridges or scraping can indicate that it is too close. Run the appropriate calibration for your printer.

Check the selected plate and filament profile. Temperature and surface preparation depend on that combination. PETG can bond too strongly to some surfaces, so a release layer may be required.

Increasing heat won’t correct a contaminated plate or an incorrectly calibrated first layer.

3. How can I tell whether stringing is caused by moisture or settings?

Stringing alone doesn’t prove that filament is wet. Nozzle temperature, retraction and moisture can all contribute.

Start with an appropriate printer and filament profile. If the spool has been exposed to humidity, dry it according to the material’s recommended conditions and repeat the same test print without changing the settings. This helps isolate whether drying improves the result.

If stringing remains, test a small reduction in nozzle temperature within the filament’s recommended range, then check retraction. Change one variable at a time.

Moisture can also cause bubbling, surface defects and poor layer adhesion, but these symptoms still need troubleshooting rather than an automatic diagnosis.

4. Will a sealed bag or dry box fix filament that has absorbed moisture?

Storage and drying do different jobs.

A sealed container with desiccant helps keep filament dry during storage. Filament that has already absorbed enough moisture to affect printing may need active drying.

Use the recommended drying temperature and duration for the specific filament. Don’t apply one drying setting to every material—PLA and nylon have different requirements.

After drying, return the spool to sealed storage with desiccant. Materials that absorb moisture readily may also benefit from being printed directly from a dry environment.

5. Should I use 100% infill to make a PETG part stronger?

More infill isn’t always the most useful first change.

For PETG parts, increasing the number of walls can be more effective than simply increasing infill. Walls form the outer shell, so it’s worth reviewing them before filling the entire interior.

Layer bonding also matters. Temperature and cooling affect how well PETG layers join: settings that prioritise sharp detail may differ from those used to prioritise toughness.

Start with a suitable profile, then adjust walls and other settings for the part’s intended use. A higher infill percentage alone doesn’t guarantee that the finished part will perform as required.